Holy smokes. Some days I feel like I have the biggest breasts on the planet. I know I don't, but they are large. Let's look at the numbers:
High bust (high chest): 36"
Full bust: 45"
Bra size: US 36I, UK 36GG (All I ever wear are UK brands - they seem to understand how to fit the large breasted woman better.)
What the measurements don't reveal is that I have a narrow, bony back. It is the only part of my body that lacks excess adipose tissue. I like my back. My upper torso is, in general, thin compared to the rest of me. I have very large breasts on a bony torso. The combo of large breasts on a narrow-ish torso is a tough one to fit. Certainly RTW is a challenge.
First FBA can be seen in this post: Since I just completed my first FBA, and thought it to be relatively successful, I am excited to do more. I wore that top at the beach over my bathing suit, and it worked well.
Enter Kwik Sew 3338. See pattern info here. View C is a simple, short sleeved tee. I am partial to simple cotton tee's for multiple reasons, including both the climate and the ease & comfort of wear. After reading several sources, I chose a method of attack. They all seem fairly similar. Here are the front and back pieces basted together. I put these out there in hopes of receiving opinions on how to make this better.
Sorry for the blur, but this picture shows the pull between the breasts.
This shot shows the slight gathering on the front at the bust to ease front to back. It also shows a gaping at the front of the armsyce, what would be the upper outer quadrant if you were looking face on. there are also some ripples from under the bust going to the side seam.
The back. Ignore PJ pants.
Here on the left side, you can see a similar gaping at the front of the armsyce as on the right side. I am appearing quite bloated in these pics! Shooting pics after a pasta dinner is a no-no.
Here is how I got there:
|Pattern traced in size M with XL length.|
I chose M according to my high bust - I'm right between a S & M.
|Alteration lines in red ink.|
|I exaggerated the alteration lines using an 'app', and labeled the pieces A and B. The upper section above the diagonal line stays where it is.|
|I slashed along the lines I drew in, and separated the pieces. A was slid 2.5 in. to the left, and B was moved down 2 in.|
|Taped in place.|
|Marked a new waist.|
|The result made the waist/hip area too big, so I drew a new line to narrow the waist and hip.|
|I thought I needed more room in the bust, so I tacked some on.|
|Cut the new side.|
|Ready to cut fabric.|
The latter is an easy fix. The FBA, on the other hand, is challenging me. I tissue fitted this pattern, and felt that I needed 5 inches total at the bust, especially given that it is a knit. That is why I did a 2.5" spread at the bust point. I felt that I needed the extra length to cover the full breast - that is why I moved piece B down 2".
I read someplace on the web that when doing a 'large FBA', that more than one 'slash & spread' is required. Would that help? Or should I have angled the upper diagonal line differently - angled it into the armsyce rather than the shoulder?
Determined as I am to learn how to do the proper FBA for my shape, I am not discouraged in the slightest. The knit, although beefy and having a nice hand, was an inexpensive find, and I have lots more.
Any thoughts, advice, opinions are most welcome.
Thanks for reading!