Friday, July 22, 2011

Diabolical Darts From the Depths of Darkness

Seriously, WTH? These #¥€$&!%# darts are driving my crazy.

Now, I realize it has been some time since I've sewn darts. In fact, the last time I made a top for myself, it was back in the 80's. Before I was a mom. Way before. Before the girls grew irrevocably to an obscene size. Back then, I was sporting a D or two, 32 to 34. Add in the fact that the '80's ushered in big styles - shoulder pads in oversized blouses. And don't forget the big hair to match. No problem for the well endowed sewist.

Fast forward a couple+ decades. Those DD's are now GG's (aka I's here in the US), and I just want a few shirts that fit without paying the tailor to retro-fit RTW.

Enter New Look 6483. A nice little sleeveless top in linen. What more could a Floridian ask for in late July? (Well, a pool in the yard, but we're talking sewing here.)

Five, yes, five muslins later, in a range of sizes, I decide that I'm ready to cut my ff - lime green linen. So I cut and sew, rip out and resew, rip out and resew, rip - well, you get the idea. After several failed attempts at making nice darts, I decided the only option was to use two darts on each side. You see, I started with a size 10, and have a 9" difference between my high bust and full bust. The darts were so deep, making it difficult to form a nice dart without 'dog-earing' the end closest to the bust point. The wide part of the dart at the ss measured 3" after it was sewn.

So I did just that on one side - made 2 darts instead of one - liked it, and did the other side. But, WHINE, I didn't like the result. Primarily because, I think, the darts are too close to the bust point on each side.

No pictures. I was done, just too annoyed. I decided it was time to quit whining and have a glass of wine. I'm thinking I need to hang this project in the closet for a while and put some distance between myself and the diabolical darts.

I'm hoping to get some studio time tomorrow to make a muslin of McCall's 2818, a Palmer-Pletsch "Learn to Fit a Full Bust" pattern. It has four views of a princess seam to the armscye, including a variety of necklines. I've sewn a princess seam dress for Lauren, who is a DD, and it was not difficult to fit. My impression is that it's easier to fit a full bust with princess seams. I guess we'll see about that.

For now, I've had my whine and my wine, and it's time for bed.

I'm going to get this. I am.

Until tomorrow,

The Busty Blogger


  1. Enjoy the wine. We all have moments when we wonder what the h--- went wrong. My daughter is a DD and I know the difficulties I have fitting her.
    I read that Connie Crawford will be soon be offering patterns for double letter cup sizes. I can't wait.
    There are lots of FBA tutorials out there. I think I used one from Erica B.--D.I.Y. Style - for some guidance.
    Good Luck.

  2. I feel your pain!! I've almost given up on the whole institution of darted tops! I can never seem to get the darts positioned quite right. I don't know why, but I have much less trouble with princess seams.

  3. Rather than have two bust darts, why not rotate some of the bust dart out to a waist dart?

  4. Alexandra, that's a viable option. I'd need a side zip if I put in waist darts. I like the look of using waist darts, so I may end up doing that.

    Katie, I am really thinking that a princess seamed top is the best way to fit my top.

    Janlynn, the wine was lovely. ;)


Thank you for taking the time to comment! Sadly, comment moderation and word verification had to be turned on due to excess spam.