Saturday, November 19, 2011

Silhouette #3400 Three Piece Yoga Pant (Take 2)


Today I made a second pair of the Silhouette Yoga Pant to perfect the fit. Since this was my first foray into this pattern line, and sizing takes a different approach, I made my first pair without pattern adjustments, using my 'best guess' in terms of sizing. That post is here.

When I first pulled this pattern out a couple of evenings ago, I just wanted to cut and sew, a quickie, if you will. I needed some instant gratification. The pattern envelope tells you to wrap the knit fabric around your body to get a sense of the final measurements you want. My fabric is a 'technical knit' with about 50% stretch and springy recovery. I didn't want the pants to be loose and fall down while walking/exercising, so I went for a little more stretch rather than less.

The pattern sizing all in one envelope is 4 - 18 and 14W - 28W (hip 37" - 53"), and rather than body measurements, the envelope has finished garment measurements. This is nice, because you get to decide how much ease you want in your garment. I made the decision to try a straight 14W, even though the regular 14 measurements were 2 inches larger at the waist and hip. I thought that was strange, but figured that the 14W must have a bigger crotch length to warrant it being in the 'W' category, but smaller in finished width.

After finishing my 14W, I felt they were a good fit in terms of comfort, but were too revealing in the hip and thigh area. I also felt they were high waisted, more-so than I would usually choose. I wore those pants around the house last night and this morning. Evaluating the fit during the daylight hours, I could see that the side seam at the upper thigh was pulling slightly, indicating the need for more width there. I also saw horizontal lines coming from the crotch. So, while comfortable, the fit wasn't quite right.

 I've since taken the time to look more closely at this pattern and have some observations about the fit/design and sizing. For comparison's sake, I took the time to measure the crotch length on a size 12 and a size 14W, as the size 12 was closest to the 14W measurements, which I already had cut. (Waist & hip each differed by 1/2 inch.) The 14W CL was 2 1/2 inches bigger than that of the size 12, with the 14W's CL being spot on with my own CL. Since I wanted the pants to sit below my waist, I felt that the regular sizing would work better.

Looking at the finished garment measurements and accounting for more ease in the hip & thigh area, I decided upon a regular 14 waist and a regular 18 from the hip down. I have a well defined waist and well endowed hips & thighs, so I like slacks to hang from my widest point and not taper in at all - more like a trouser fit.

The result? I really like the fit. Cutting an 18 from the hip down made the legs wider than the 14W pair, which works great for me. There are no telltale horizontal crotch lines; the side seams are straight and hang nicely. The yoga pants are very comfortable, and I will get a lot of wear out of these. I will also wear the closer fitting 14W around the house as they are so comfy.  Even though I plan to wear these pants with sneakers and a tee, the pattern envelope shows the pants styled slightly less casual.  I can easily see these 'dressed up' a bit, especially in a dressier fabric such as crepe.

In spending time with this pattern measuring the pieces and looking at the shape, crotch length, etc., I feel that these pants really seem to be drafted to a more mature figure such as my own. That's not to say it wouldn't work for someone with a more youthful figure, it's just that these fit my body without having to stand on my head with my nose pointing to the east while redrawing the crotch line and changing the waistband. It's nice to have a pattern fit will little intervention to the flat pattern.  If I were to make these for my daughter, for example, I would most likely have to do a short waist adjustment.  Not only is she short waisted, but prefers to wear her pants at a lower rise than I do.

I sewed these 100% on my serger. For the hems, I used Heat 'n Bond Light to secure the hems, then sewed using a wide coverstitch setting on my Babylock serger. I definitely intend to use this pattern again.

Unhemmed, checking fit.

Finished with coverstitch hem.  Nice width to the straight leg.


In parting, I leave you with a gratuitous adorable Goldie shot and pet product review.  My sweet assistant is getting older, and this past several months we have noticed she is awfully stiff when she gets up.  We splurged on an Orvis memory foam bed for upstairs.  This shot was taken as soon as we took it out of the delivery box.  She immediately knew it was for her.  She came over with her "baby" (see it under her head?) and stepped on, circled three times and laid down like it was an old friend.

The bed was pricey, although not as pricey as the Tempur-Pedic brand name beds.  Being the frugal one in the family, I was at first doubtful that it would be worth the money, and was fully prepared to return the bed if I didn't feel it was worth the $$.  I have purchased from Orvis in the past, and have never been disappointed.  Additionally, we all sleep on Tempur-Pedic mattresses, and are firm believers, so I made the purchase.  I am glad I did.  It is clearly well made, sumptuously soft, and Crystal loves it.  The fabric on this bed just so happens to be a near perfect match for the upholstery on the sectional in the game room upstairs, the room for which the bed is intended.  For her existing downstairs bed, I plan to purchase a piece of memory foam, cut it to size and shape, cover it, and sandwich it between the existing layers, out of sight.

I offered my pet bed review here because I originally considered sewing one.  I certainly could have, although by the time I sourced and purchased the memory foam and fabric, and added in precious sewing time of which there is not enough these days,  I don't think I would have come out ahead cost-wise.

That's all for now.  I'm off to pre-wash some fabric and get some chores out of the way to start on my next sewing venture, a shoulder princess blouse OR a long sleeved tee with an empire waist - depends on which way the wind is blowing in the studio!

Be well and have a lovely weekend,

Andrea

4 comments:

  1. I found your blog through Stitches and Seams and I love the Yoga pant pattern. I have made them twice now - but havne't blogged about either pair due to the *chaos* that is my life right now, but they are great pants. In fact, wearing them I have received several comments and questions about where did I get those pants. It is a great pettern and your pants look great!

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  2. Thanks for taking the time to point out particular fitting problems you experienced with the three piece yoga pants pattern. I think most of us baby boomers find ourselves with the same fitting problems. I plan on purchasing the pattern, and this info helps.

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  3. Thanks for the comparison of sizes! Also, your dog could be identical twins with my golden lab - cute!

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