Saturday, February 18, 2012

Dressform Adventures Part II

Rather than work on the bottom area of my new dressform, I fine tuned the fit of the upper part. I put a more fitted blouse on her, one that fits me ok (I can't say I have any that fit great - yet), and adjusted until it fit the dressform like it fit me.





One thing I had noticed is that the dressform's shoulders are quite sloped compared to my own, and while I thought the included shoulder pads fixed this issue, putting the fitted blouse on her showed me that the shoulders needed to be more 'squared' or basically straight across. I temporarily fixed this with more fabric scraps, but will need to add padding under the cover.




This picture above illustrates an important point, and it was in working this out that I realized the importance of a good shoulder fit. (Eureka! This is why I bought a good dressform.) The left arrow points at the bust apex, which is in line with the bottom of the sleeve (right arrow), just as it is when I wear this blouse. The third arrow points to the dart tip. I compared this to pictures of myself in this top, and relied on measurements also. Without the proper shoulder shaping, the shirt wasn't fitting the form the same way it fit me, even though I knew my measurements were correct. Stepping back and scratching my head, looking at the form from across the room and then back to the picture of myself in the blouse, was when I had my eureka moment. Simply inserting some folded fabric scraps to elevate the shoulder line to more horizontal fixed the problem, and the blouse then fit the form perfectly.


If you look closely at this blouse, you will see that the bust isn't a perfect fit - the bust pulls the fabric from the armscye forward, essentially 'borrowing' fabric from that area. This would not work in a long sleeve, as this would restrict arm movement. As it is, this blouse does have to be adjusted a lot when I wear it. But for me, it's as good as RTW gets in a woven fabric. This is a Michael Kors in a 14W. I go up to the women's size in woven tops for the bust room. They are usually too big in the back, shoulder, and belly area, but this top has a great back feature that I just love - several rows of elastic at the center back waist. It works really well for my figure.





I have enjoyed setting up my new dressform, and I think it will be most helpful for fitting challenges. The FF pads give such a nice contour, so I am going to order another batch of fitting pads rather than tear up foam. I believe it will serve my needs better in the long run.

Josephine, my duct tape form, will be retired. Her innards are slated to become a 26" pillow for Anna - it is her birthday this week and I want to make a few fun pillows for her room to match the valance and sheers I made for her .... of which I believe I need to take and post pictures. This afternoon I spent some time on another accessory for Anna's room. I've got some more work to do on that before I post it.

We were supposed to be traveling this weekend, but my family is down with the flu. I admit the downtime is really wonderful, so I don't mind staying home on this four day weekend (US President's Day). Fingers crossed I don't get the cooties.

Happy sewing,

Andrea

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