So, a while back I was perusing Emma One Sock, and found a Chico's knit abstract print in oranges/reds/browns/and near black. It appealed to me, as I love shades of orange, but I like it broken up a bit, not so much in-your-face orange. It hopped in my cart, just a scant little yard of it.
|A few other knits were close matches.|
Last week I was
So I laid out the fabric, which is not as wide as a lot of the knits I've purchased. I fooled around with layout for a couple of evenings, until I was able to squeeze the entire pattern, including sleeves this time, on the fabric.
|The pattern envelope on the right is saving a spot for the other sleeve.|
A few notes about pattern alterations:
Jennifer is great about providing alteration instructions for this pattern on her blog. At some point along my sewing journey, I altered the Tee pattern in the following ways: First, I made an FBA. Then I made the Tee out of Ponte a couple of times. I wear them all the time - the Ponte is so-so quality and is 'pilly', but the it is firm, and good for hiding some bumps & bulges. Knowing that I would want to make the Tee from a softer, more drapey knit, I used a modified form of Jennifer's instructions to relax the fit of The Tee.
I also took in the front neck and armscye a bit by adding mini pleats to the pattern tissue in those areas. If I recall correctly, Jennifer had those instructions on her blog also.
As I was laying out the pattern, I remembered seeing this version. on pattern review, and loving it. Then this review popped up with an update - the reviewer had redrafted the front yoke as one piece, and it looks great on her. I knew I wanted to do away with the yoke side seams/pieces in this version, so I redrafted the yoke, combining the side and center pieces into one. Then when laying out, I folded the new pattern piece in half and cut it as two halves, with the intention to trim it and leave it open.
Why I began keeping a sewing notebook:
All those pattern alterations I just described? I don't remember how much I altered, or when I altered. I'm usually pretty good about scribbling notes on the tissue and/or pattern envelope, but not so much in this case. A while back I began keeping a sewing notebook, and have found it to be so helpful. I typically put much more detail in the notebook regarding flat pattern measurements, tissue alterations, fit issues, and fit-as-I-sew changes, than in blog posts.
If I had kept a notebook when I made The Tee, I would have been able to look up and remember that I needed to make an adjustment to the pattern for a more perfect fit. You see, now that I have made the front of The Tee and pinned it to my (as yet unnamed) dressform, I am recalling that when I sewed my last Tee, I needed to sew a much deeper seam allowance under the arm at the upper side seam. What I cannot recall is whether I thought taking up some of the armscye would help, or if I did that just for gaping above the bust. At any rate, I am adding a sleeve to this version, so hopefully that will take care of that little issue at the upper side seam. If I were going sleeveless, I'd just do a wider SA at the top. And make a note in my sewing notebook to correct that on the pattern tissue.
|The upper side seam is pinned further back than midline.|
Back to design changes:
Serindipitously, laying on my cutting table was some leftover red knit from the Creative Cate top. There were also black knit scraps, and I pulled out a brown knit from my stash. Here is a picture comparing the three colors against the primary fabric.
I went with the red for trim, as I think it lends the most versatility as far as wear is concerned. I lined the redrafted front yoke pieces with the red knit, then made and sewed red knit trim to the center split. In the interest of blog post length, I will leave that part of the construction for another post. I also plan to trim out the neckline with the same red knit, rather than self fabric.
So, here is the front of The Tee, pinned to the dressform. I like the bust fit, and I also like how the lower bodice is a looser fit in this version, skimming the abdomen rather than hugging it.
The in-laws came for dinner, so I had to turn off my machines and unplug the iron. Stay tuned for more of The Tee.