Sunday, April 15, 2012

A Fitting Journey: Part Two

Good Sunday Afternoon, or whatever time of the day it is where you are.  It is another gorgeous day in the Sunshine State.  I have a beautiful, sunny view from my second floor sewing studio.

First, let me address the comments from my last post on fitting.  Thank you for your comments, ladies.   Elle and Jilly, average is a wonderful, splendid thing when it comes to fitting.  I've never been 'average' fit-wise, having inherited the BB gene(s).  That just means I have to find a way to fit my curves, and thankfully, I'm not afraid to forge ahead.  Jilly - you never have to worry about being 'pc' for me.  ;-)

Robin, I wish we lived close - wouldn't it be great to learn to fit the girls together?  I am glad to hear you find this journey helpful.

Next, a quote.

Success is not final, failure is not fatal: it is the courage to continue that counts.
Winston Churchill

Now I will let some pictures do the talking.



What do you see here?  What do you think is causing the smilies and poufs?

How about here?  Clue:  I don't have a beer belly.  (Honest!)

Same disclaimer applies here.


Clearly I have not yet achieved a good fit.  Let's evaluate the issues.

Pic#1:  I've got all kinds of droopiness, smilies, and poufs in the front.  It is clear to me when I put the muslin on that the bust point is too low.  How low???  Well, about the 2" that I lowered it, that's how low.  The arrows in the pic point to the apex on the muslin. 
What is the malfunction?  My tissue fitting was faulty, apparently.  I was surprised when I did the tissue fitting that I needed to lower the apex by 2".  I was wearing a good bra, well fitting, and very new, so I can rule that out.  I was just faulty in my tissue fitting.  This is the reason for the muslin, right?

Pics#2 and #3:  I will address these together, as I see the same thing in both.  Drag lines.  (What a drag, haha...)  I have established that the apex in the front is too low - the princess seam full bust point  is wrong for my apex.   The muslin apex is basically hanging there, along with excess fabric, causing droopiness in the front, and the drag lines you see.  There are even some coming from the back in pic#2.

What's right about the muslin?

When I look at pic#1, I see that the princess seams are lying properly.  They should lie either directly over the middle of the bust, or slightly toward the arm side.  

The back - no picture here, but I will provide one next go 'round, as I am going to use the same back.  I see a couple drag lines, but these will likely correct when I correct the front.  Best to make one change at a time, to evaluate the muslin as a whole, rather than in a vacuum.

Side seams - not too shabby.  Fairly straight, except some drag from front again.  

So, clearly, the trouble spot is the apex.

I warned you this would be all about the bust fit, right?!

Now I am off to have a cup of black bean soup that I made for lunch/dinner, then I will proceed to redo the fronts and repost, hopefully tonight.

Happy Sunday, happy sewing,

Andrea



*********UPDATE**********

After I got some food in me and went to throw some laundry in (sort of a Zen activity for me - I do a lot of thinking in the laundry room), I realized that I posted pics without the process of how I got there. I meant to do that, but also meant to explain that I will post later about the process. I wanted to get a quick post out with muslin pictures, as it helps me evaluate the process and fit. All that to say there will be step by step pictures coming soon.

I have retraced my pattern and am about to do some flat pattern measurements and another tissue fitting. The combo of the two should help me be more accurate.

Be back soon!

1 comment:

  1. Once again, I am no help when it comes to fit, have a look at Sham's blog today, she has written an excellent post about FBAs for the uber busty. Could be useful.

    ReplyDelete

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