Monday, May 28, 2012

Butterick 5678: Moving the Princess Seam

Happy Memorial Day to all of the US readers, Happy Monday to everyone else!  To all those who have served our country, or who has a family member who serves or has served, thank you. 

I had a few more small changes to make to my flat pattern.  Before we get to moving the princess seam, I want to point out the other changes I did prior to moving the seam.  

First, I felt as though I needed just a tad more room at the front armscye.  I pinned the muslin to my dressform, inserted some tissue, and drew the shape and size needed.  Then I transferred that amount to the pattern.  (See arrow, below, left.)  

Second, after trying on my muslin a few more times, I felt like I needed a little more wearing ease over the tummy, hips, and bottom.  I added about 1/4" to the front and side front pattern pieces, which made for smoother transition below the bust, at least on the flat pattern.  This picture does not show it terribly well, but  I marked the addition with red slash marks.

Now on to moving the princess seam.  I thought about the fact that I added to, and now will take away from, the same pattern piece.  Duh.  Anyhow, I tried on the muslin and determined how far I wanted the seam moved toward my arms.  I measured that amount on the side front all the way up the pattern with tick marks.  Then I drew a line connecting the marks, tapering to just a mm or two at the shoulder, and cut that amount off of the pattern piece.  If one wanted to, a new seam line could be drawn in, but I don't need it to be indicated on the pattern at this point.  I transferred the notches to the pattern since I was cutting them off.

The next picture shows the front pattern piece.  I taped tissue to the princess seam side, measured the same amount that I took away from the side front, and connected the tick marks (red line furthest to the left, below).  I trimmed away the excess tissue outside of that new red line, which is the new cut line.  Again, I marked the new notches.

One last change - I added a little more room to the back and side back pattern pieces below the waist.  I added 1/4" to each, which will result in an extra 1" back there.  If it is too much, I can fix that as I sew.  

Over the weekend I dug through my stash.  I pulled out a rather large piece of white cotton/lycra that I had purchased at Hancock's at a really good price a while back.  It is on the heavy side, and stretches crosswise only.  It is heavier than I would like for a shirt, but good enough for a first version now that I think I got the pattern fitting pretty well.  Who knows, I may end up liking the fabric.  It is cut out and ready when I find the time to sew.

I have done nothing to the sleeves yet, but after I sew this up and am happy with the fit, I will address the sleeves.  In reading PR reviews for this pattern, it sounds like they would need adjustment anyway, regardless if I had made changes to the pattern or not.

One more thing I noticed tonight. I was walking the two front pattern pieces to make sure everything was lining up.  The notches above and below the bust on both front pieces indicate where one piece needs to be 'eased' into the other.  It seemed to me that there was a lot to be eased, so I am making a note for myself here to go back to the original pattern pieces and walk them to see how much ease is between the notches before the pattern was altered.  I made a lot of changes to the bust area, so better safe than sorry.

Fingers crossed I have achieved a wearable fit.  I have to admit, I am getting restless with this project.  With having only tidbits of time here and there to work on this pattern, it has taken a while.  I am hankering for a 'quickie', and I also have the fabric rolls for my MB window treatments calling out to be sewn.  All in good time.

Happy sewing, all.  Hopefully next time I post, it'll be about a wearable shirt.


1 comment:

  1. I know adjustments are a lot of work, but in the end, they are so worth it!


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