I've eked out a tad bit of progress since my last post. I've used both Fit For Real People (FFRP) and Sarah Veblen's book, The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting. The latter, in particular, gave me the answer to a puzzle that I ruminated on in my head for a couple days. I've really come to love that book.
In my last post, the pictures showed that I needed:
1) a narrow shoulder alteration
2) to move the shoulder forward a tad
3) to remove excess between the shoulder and bust
4) to add some hip and glutes room
5) to move the princess seams on the front laterally toward the arms a bit for the most complementary look over the girls.
I've done the pattern work for 1 through 3, and started 4 and 5. I can't find my narrow shoulder alteration pictures, but that is a straightforward alteration, shown in books such as those mentioned above.
Next, addressing the excess fabric above the bust.
|#3 Removing excess above bust. This shows the "tuck" across the front pattern piece. which is really a slash & overlap. Note that is is not symmetrical.|
|#3 Removing excess above bust. This picture shows the "wedge" (lower arrow) , tapering to nothing at the armscye with a hinge. The cut lines were trued (not shown).|
#3 Removing the excess between the shoulder and bust is the issue that I had to cogitate on for a couple of days. I needed to take out a significant amount at CF - 2 inches - and needed to taper to zero at the armscye. In my head it was no big deal, but when playing with the flat pattern pieces, I was a bit stumped about how to handle this adjustment. I tried folding, and I tried slashing. The latter seemed to work better at keeping the pattern piece flat, but it seriously threw the upper portion off-grain.
One evening, I took Sarah Veblen's book to bed with me and paged through it, thinking that I had read about this particular issue in her guide. I found the solution, which was to create a "tuck and wedge". The tuck is on the front, the wedge on the side front. This in reality becomes a slash and overlap on the front and side front pattern pieces, creating a hinge at the armscye. Sarah addressed the issue of the area above the adjustment being off-grain. I guess not only is it not an issue, but adds some bias to that area, which can help with the fit. One caveat here: My front pattern piece required an asymmetrical "tuck" (ie, slash and overlap) of a significant size. The next mock up will be the litmus test.
I still need to take away from the side front princess seam the amount I added to the front princess seam, and maybe add a little wiggle room at the back side. I am so looking forward to getting this done, but as with most people, sewing time is at a premium.
It turns out my DD is going to need spine surgery, unfortunately. I am looking forward to having her pain relieved, but not looking forward to surgery for her. We are working on getting a date asap after final exams are over. If I appear to drop off the face of the Earth, that's why.
I will get this shirt done one day!