Friday, July 6, 2012

Burda 7208 Finished Outfit

Happy Friday!  Have I told you all that I love Summer?  I absolutely love the more carefree schedule.  I managed to get some more sewing time in this week.

I hemmed the skirt from Burda 7208 using the coverstitch on my Babylock, and finished up the top from the same pattern.  I've worn the skirt a couple times, and it is incredibly comfortable.

If you read member grays08's review of this top pattern on Pattern Review, it will actually save me from typing up a long involved pattern rant.  She did a good job of reviewing and listing the issues with this pattern.  There are several issues, but in Burda's defense, it is a cute top.

There are a couple things I'd like to comment on, though.  By the way, this was my first-ever Burda pattern.   I'm not sure if the mysteries found in the instructions are typical of Burda or not because of my lack of prior Burda usage.

The first thing that I am not crazy about with this top pattern is the way the inside seams are left unfinished.  I know my ocd will show here, and it is a knit, but I really like the innards to look as good as the outside.  I followed the instruction to see where they were going - I could have deviated and cleaned it up.  What I did do differently, though, was topstitch all the seams, and coverstitched my hem, making it smaller than called for.

The picture below shows both an example of the insides, and the manner in which Burda instructs you to make a closing at the neck with a loop inside on one side and a button on the other.  I did this, but am not thrilled with that closure, so I will be changing that.

Grays08 talks in her review about a 'band'.  Burda instructs you to put a band over the gathered shoulder seams on the inside, then to stitch it down.  There is no other mention of this band, nor is there a pattern piece.  I winged it and made a self fabric band.  I also deviated from their instructions in the application.  They say to baste, then sew.  I just used some wonder tape to stick it on, then sewed around it in a rectangle, folding under the ends.  The purpose, as far as I can tell, is really just to stabilize the gathered shoulder seams, which could be accomplished in a number of ways.

Gathered shoulder.  The 'band' is applied on the underside.

The two reviews on Pattern Reviewfor Burda 7208 both make a note of this having a forward shoulder.    I feel it is slightly forward, but not terribly so.  I may feel differently after a good day's wear.

Back View
I like the V in the back, so I am glad I made it according to instructions.  I considered leaving it off.  

My top does not look exactly like the Burda envelope picture, because I chose to leave the drape off.  I think the drape is a really nice idea, (scroll down for pictures) and appears to be slimming, however, my fabric was just too thick to be amenable to an additional close fitting layer in this heat.  I had intended this to be a wearable muslin of sorts, because of my inexperience with Burda's fit, and because of my pattern adjustments (sort of 'on the fly' if you will, not particularly sanctioned adjustments), so I used an inexpensive cotton knit from stash.

Speaking of adjustments, here is what I did.  
1)  Cut shoulders at a size 10.
2)  Redrew the armscye to accommodate my bountiful bosom.
3)  From the bottom of the armscye down, I cut a size 16.
4)  I lengthened the bodice pattern (a good bit), also to account for the bosom.
5)  I lengthened the drape also.

***Disclaimer:  The above adjustments, intended as a personal FBA, worked well for me, however, in no way are they to be considered 'official', 'correct', or 'the right way'.  

Bodice front pictured.  Similar changes made to bodice back.

Drape piece, applied to front and back.  

In the drape piece pictured above, I've labeled the top and sides.  The sides are gathered, and adjusted to fit at the side seams of the top.  The drape is designed to have negative ease, stretching across the abdomen to the other side seam.

This makes me feel like a 12 year old taking a picture in my bathroom for Facebook.
 The above picture, although dark, gives a sense of how form fitting the drape makes this top.  Here I only have the front drape basted on.

A crappy, lightened, cell phone pic to show the band pinned on.

The drape was too wide, with not enough fabric recovery,  so it felt more like a pouch.  Could be handy, though.  
In conclusion, I do like the style of this casual top.  I can see wearing a top with drapes applied in a lighter fabric, such as an ITY Knit, of which the skirt is made, so I would likely make it again.  I would make the top itself closer fitting from below the bust to the hem, because the shirt will bunch a bit under the drape.  I would also consider making the front a V neckline as well.  I believe I will get some wear out of both pieces from this pattern.  

I did mentioned that I'm trying to shake up my tendency for solids, so 50% print isn't bad pour moi!

Have a fabulous weekend,



  1. I mean this in the best of ways, but you look just about 12 in those cute little shorts and that expression on your face. Not that we ever want to go back ther, but it's rather nice to find out that we look younger than we think. I like the gathered shoulder detail a lot.

  2. Cute top. I like the drape on you, on me no way no how, too much belly. 8-D

    I am too chicken to sew anything fun for me right now. Got to lose some more weight first. But you know that already.

    1. Thanks! I am trying to sew things that are easy to take in.

  3. Cute outfit -I agree with you about finishing seams - I can not just leave them even if I know they will not ravel although I have left polar fleece seams raw but trimmed as neatly as possible. Anyway despite everything your top did turn out great and looks very useful. As to the prints = I am the opposite and need to try sew more solids.


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