Sunday, September 23, 2012

Style Arc Sailor Sue Palazzo Pants and Creative Cate: Autumn Versions

The Ixoras are blooming well.

Happy Autumn!  We had the most glorious day here in my neck of the woods, and all in all it has been a great weekend.  Hope you're having a relaxing and fun weekend too.  I admit I am ever so slightly envious of all the northerners out there who are reporting that coolness in the morning and evening air that early autumn ushers in.  

So, if you stop by here regularly, you probably know that my peeps and I have been journeying to better health and fitness, resulting in a slow and steady weight loss for the whole family.  I am almost halfway to my goal weight, (yay!), and most of the clothes in my closet no longer fit.  In order to have a wardrobe that fits (other than exercise clothes), I have been focusing on sewing up easy knits.  I have a fairly casual lifestyle, so I am not really in need of  tailored items during this phase.  I don't want to invest lots of time and effort into involved garments that (with any luck) will only be wearable for a short time.

You may be saying enough already, but I've made a third version of the Sailor Sue pants and a third version of the Creative Cate top.  Clearly, I love these patterns.  They are quick and easy to cut & sew, comfortable to wear, and no-fuss care since they are knits.   Style Arc patterns are not inexpensive to ship to the US from Australia, but I would say I've gotten my money's worth from these two patterns.   

Creative Cate:  
This top has a cowl neck, and a short, cut-on sleeve.  I used a rayon knit obtained locally, that has a beautiful hand and drape.  One feature of this pattern that I noticed on this version is that the sleeve openings are a little small.  I did not notice this on my earlier versions, as the fabrics used had more stretch and softer recovery.  My arms are relatively thin, so if you have fuller upper arms, this may be an issue.  The sleeves are not uncomfortable, but rather just show a slight pulling, as though there could be more ease.  I am also noticing some pull lines between the girls, moreso than prior versions, and again, all other things being equal (even same bra), it's the fabric's snappier stretch/recovery.  BTW, I never did a FBA on this pattern, but if I use a firmer knit in the future, I may need one.

Other than changing the order of construction listed on the pattern, no changes to the pattern.  I sewed it entirely on my serger.  This is one quick and satisfying pattern, and I can live with a little pulling.

A little pulling here and there. Could have used a FBA.  Oh well!

Sailor Sue:
The fabric for this pair of Sailor Sue pants is a fabulous Ponte in charcoal purchased from Emma One Sock last fall.  This pair was made from Hancock's Ponte (nor Marci Tilton as I said in that post),  and this pair is a navy Sophia Knit from, definitely not a Ponte from EOS, as I mistakenly posted.  Late night posting, I guess.... But the source on the fabric for today's outfit is definitely correct!  

Anyhoo, the point here is that all three fabrics have behaved a little differently, with this latest charcoal EOS Ponte being the 'firmest' of the 3 double knits.  I mentioned previously that I took in the first pair, then removed that same amount in the hip and waist area in the second pair during construction.  For this pair, since the fabric has less stretch, I just used generous seam allowances on the side seams from the hip to waist.

The only real change to the pattern this time is that I decided to put a waistband on these pants, although the pattern calls for a 1cm elastic sewed to the inside waist, then turned in and secured.  The waistband consists of  Fantastic Elastic and a self-drafted waistband.  I am not convinced I will keep the waistband, because although it is comfortable, it is changing the way the pant wears/hangs.  I am wearing them around the house today to help me decide.  My husband took pictures for me outside, and he even noticed they were sitting differently than their sisters, and had funny lines forming.  If the hubby notices, I probably need to ditch the waistband! 

I am not sure exactly what is causing the lines. What do you think?

What is causing my funny pant lines?

Even with the little fit snags encountered this third time around, I'm still smitten with Sue & Cate.  The lovely fabrics were a dream to sew, and feel great to wear. 

Up next?  I've ordered the rest of the supplies and fabric needed to make the bra pattern purchased from Make Bra, but while I am waiting, I may surprise DD with an Alma top from Sewaholic.  Where she attends school, they wear mostly their own clothes, except the one day they wear uniforms.  There are a few rules governing what 'normal' clothes they wear. one rule being that collars are required.  I am considering making this top in a knit, with a shorter sleeve.  It is drafted for a woven, but I'll just have to make it work.  

Photo from Sewaholic - click for source.

She has a top similar to the one below, except the collar is beaded.  I think the Alma top will be a good starting point.

Source:  H & M

That's all for now... Have a wonderful week with plenty of sewing!


Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Fall 2012's first outfit: Sneak Peek and A Bra Pattern {!!!}


Fabric for this week's new outfit.  Charcoal Ponte from Emma One Sock that has marinated well in the stash since last winter.  Actually, they are already a pair of pants just waiting to be hemmed tomorrow.  The rectangles fabric, distinctly unmarinated, was just purchased today.  Digging through the stash did not produce anything I was really feeling for the beautiful grey Ponte, so I grabbed my bag and keys and ran to see my local fabric goddess, Marisu.  {Myra, we must schedule a little trip!} She was actually closed, with a note on the door that she was gone for NY's Fashion Week!  Well, as luck would have it, she was in, but only for a few minutes.  My dear Marisu has the eye, I tell you.  I showed her a swatch of my fabric, and with a glance at my coloring, pulled out a couple of beautiful rayon jerseys.  I bought both, of course.  The other is a border print, and is currently in line in the laundry room, so pics of that later, k?

The rectangles fabric got washed, dried, and cut out after dinner, and will be a top to go with the grey pants.  $50,000 Question:  Which two patterns will be used to make this outfit?  Hmmmm.  I'd tell you, but you might think me obsessed.  Or dull.  Or... lazy.  Truth be told, it just could be a combo of all of the above.  

I will finish up these quickies tomorrow, as I want to wear them Thursday morning, when I have to give a little talk.  The place is informal, but the event is a welcome of sorts for a very special visitor, so I want an outfit that looks nice, but it does not need to be formal or 'stuffy'.  The venue is typically warmish, and I get more than warmish naturally on my own, so a light top is in order, and no hose for sure.  Should have pics tomorrow or Thursday.  

The colors are difficult to capture this evening.  I lightened the pic on the right, but they do not show true colors.  Maybe a daytime outside picture will work better.

Pretty excited about this!  An order from 'Make Bra' arrived yesterday!!  The only time ever ever ever I have seen a bra pattern in my size.  It is a 75J in Make Bra size, which translates to a UK size 34GG, or a US size 34I (or is it J? I forget - I pretty much buy UK brands - they just seem to understand the supersized mammys.)  Just have to gather some fabric for this project, which is definitely on the short list.  {{ The link above is to the pattern I bought, but there are several others, and a free hipster panty pattern too!.}}

Not so excited about this.  Kinda put a damper on the day yesterday, but the bright side is that a) no one was harmed in the creation of this gaping hole in my car's tire, b) a young driver who shall remain unnamed did an amazing job keeping her cool during the creation of this hole, and was able to drive the car, and us, to safety (she rocks!), and c) a lesson was learned, and all is good. 

Aside from these adventures, I have been otherwise occupied reorganizing my sewing room.  I just wasn't liking the flow, so I tore it apart, bought a new Ikea cabinet (thanks to Hubby for the putting together), and reassembled the room.  I am pretty close to completion, so there will be some sewing space pics soon.  

I also began sewing machine shopping.  I want to upgrade my regular sm, and I am not sure what I want yet.  I looked at Bernina this week - dang!  More on that later when I can form words about what I saw.  

Be well, and sew happily,


Wednesday, September 5, 2012

Just a Quick Note

Although I have no sewing to share with you this evening, I do have a cute puppy picture!  I was cleaning out the vacuum cleaner, removing all the threads that were clogging up the roller, which aparently was fascinating.....

School started here the third week of August.  After the initial shock to my system, we are now in a good routine.  I love summer, and hanging with my girl, but the school year is just more productive for me; I have more time to get things done.  

Last week I looked around my house and decided the summer's relaxed vibe had contributed to too much disorganization, and a bit of clutter.  I have a distinct disdain for clutter.  Hence, I embarked this week on a clutter busting, Autumn clean up and clean out.  I've really made some good progress, and the sewing studio will not be spared my clutter busting tirade. 

Thanks for visiting, and I'll be back really soon with some sewing instead of cleaning.  Welcome to the new followers, I'm glad you're here!

Happy Sewing,