Sunday, January 13, 2013

Kwik Sew 2874 in Nike Dri-Fit Fabric

Kwik Sew 2874
Always in search of patterns that will make good workout tops, I picked up KS 2874 with a recent acquisition of a length of Nike Dri-Fit in mind.  The weather had turned pretty chilly, so I wanted a long sleeve top.  Of course, after I made this top, the thermometer hit 80+ degrees.   Hopefully we will have a few cool days before winter is over so this top can get some wear.

This pattern features a raglan sleeve, a crew neck, a v-neck, and a 'rounded square' neck version.  View C gets all fancy with bell sleeves and some color blocking action. I made view A, the plain vanilla crew neck (is that the right term or am I thinking mens undershirts?) with the regular sleeves.

Pictures first, review below.  I've lightened all these photos to show the detail.  This fabric is a lightweight, textured, dull gray color and exceptionally hard to photograph indoors.

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Side-ish view trying to show my 'gathered dart'.

Neckline a little big in the Medium

'Wrong side' of coverstitch on the outside.  (On purpose!)

Plenty of room in the bust.  Size medium with 1 1/2" FBA

All kinds of excess fabric here. 




Pattern:  Kwik Sew 2874
Sizing: XS - XL  I cut a medium, based on prior experience with KS running large.
Fabric:  Nike Dri-Fit purchased from Dawn @ Two On Two Off.
Difficulty:  Easy 
Alterations:

1) I made a 1 1/2 inch FBA. (If you need a good review of the FBA on a raglan style bodice, look here on Debbie Cook's blog.) However, I did not want a dart, so instead, as the side seams were sewed I stretched the back to fit the excess that would have been the dart.  This basically created small gathers at the bust level on the front bodice.

2) Cut the length at the XL line instead of the M

Construction Changes:

1) I found the neck opening to be rather generous and too big on me.  To add a little extra to the neckline, I made the binding quite a bit wider than called for.  I serged the binding to the neckline in a single layer, RST, then double folded it to the inside, encasing the serged seam allowance within the fold.  This gave the neck binding some oomph (technical term), since the fabric is lightweight, and prevents it from being floppy.  I finished it with a wide coverstitch.

2)  The hem was double folded, 5/8", then coverstitched with the wrong side of the stitch facing the outside and the coverstitch on the inside.  I like to put this finish on workout clothes sometimes.  Even double folded, it was still pretty flimsy and unsteady in the coverstitcher, and would have been better if the hem were interfaced.  Truth be told, it looks a bit like a drunkard sewed the hem in a couple spots!

3) The sleeve hems were coverstitched in the flat. I did interface the sleeve hem with stretch interfacing (Pam Erny's), then just folded once and coverstitched with the wrong side of the stitch outward, just like the hem.


FIT:
It fits ok, but not stellar.  It would need further tweaking if I were to make it again, which is unlikely. I did not address the back fit at all, but it would benefit from a CB seam for shaping, as well as a sway back alteration.  There is a lot of poofiness going on back there.  Keep in mind if you want to make this, my back is narrow for my size and I shoulda/woulda/coulda cut a size small back.

It is definitely comfortable, and I will wear it if the weather gets cooler.  Perfect for walking the dogs on chilly mornings.  They don't care what I wear, as long as they get their walk.

I made this particular top because I am looking for a TNT workout top pattern.  I've got some great wicking fabrics in bright colors waiting to become tops, but they won't be this one.  Although I like this top, it's not a home run, not exactly what I am looking for.  I prefer a closer fit in stretchy wickaway fabrics.  The upper arms are rather generous on this pattern, (it's a raglan sleeve, duh!) while in the medium the fit at the lower arm and wrist was nice and close.

This evening as I was putting away clean laundry, I surveyed the workout tops in my closet.  It dawned on me that I have a few RTW short-sleeved tops in this exact same style, and they get very little wear.  I guess this is not my favorite style.  Which begs the question, why did I make the damn thing in the first place??  Head::cutting table moment.

So, my quest for a workout tee pattern continues.  Any suggestions?  For now, back to my bramaking sew-along!

Have a fabulous start to your week.  I hope it involves sewing!

Andrea






14 comments:

  1. I too, am searching for a TNT t-shirt, only mine isn't necessarily for working out. I really liked Vogue 8536, needs tweaking around the neck, and next up is Connie Crawford Butterick 5215. It has pretty good reviews on PR. I will have to lower the neckline on this one too. The nice thing about 5215 is that there are three cuts, slim cut, medium and looser. We shall see.

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    1. I'll be interested to see how the CC top works for you.

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  2. Sorry that pattern wasn't the one you hoped it would be. That happens frequently in sewing. People like Jalie patterns for their workout wear. You may want to give them a try.

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    1. I think Jalie is where I am headed next in the quest. Thanks, Gwen!

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  3. That Nike Dri-Fit fabric seems great. I've had good luck with the Stretch & Sew t-shirt patterns.

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    1. Don't think I've ever tried a S & S. I'll take a look, thanks Anna.

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  4. Hi Andrea. You asked if I would show how I made the pockets on my robe.I'd love to. I thought I'd done that somewhere but I can't find it. I'll do a post on that on my other Blog Diana's Sewing Lessons as soon as I get the chance and will let you know.

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  5. It does look very comfortable and practical, and the colour is a really lovely shade. I think with knits, the fabric qualities such as the heaviness, stretchiness and the hand; make all the difference to how you feel about the finished garment :)

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    1. I agree Carolyn, and the lack of stretch on this fabric does affect the closeness of the fit.

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  6. Andrea, that's a great fitting top! No one would really notice the overlock stitches if you didn't mention it! LOL!

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  7. Ah the elusive well fitting T pattern. I use a quick sew one and it isn't raglan. Actually I haven't made it for ages but its relatively slim fit (KS 3338). It isn't too loose in the upper arm and is a simple pattern well drafted sleeves etc. Might be worth a try.

    If you can't find it let me know and I can trace it off for you :-)

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    Replies
    1. Thank you, Emily, that is a generous offer! I looked it up online, and it looks familiar to me. Of course, it was a popular pattern on PR. I'll have a look in my stash to see if I already own it first.

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