Wednesday, February 20, 2013

A Dress Project and Pants Fitting





So it seems I can procrastinate making curtains a little longer. My daughter asked me last night if I would make a black dress for an upcoming event, just shy of a month away. She sketched her vision, then looked through the pattern stash for some inspiration. I knew immediately which fabric I wanted to use. I have had this black Italian rayon matte jersey out in my sewing room ever since it came home to me from Gorgeous Fabrics, (see Ann's used of this fabric for her Mission Maxi here) just waiting for the right time to make it into a beautiful dress. It's time has come.  The green at the bottom of the picture will be an accent color.  If I can't find trim in that color, then we will just have to get creative.  This will be a bit of a frankenpattern/self-drafting type of project. Lauren requested a slit in the skirt to the high upper thigh. Or wherever I'm comfortable with it ending. Cough-cough. Lol. More on this project another day, once I've come up with a pattern.

Next are a pair of Style Arc Sailor Sue knit pants in a brown Ponte knit. So y'all know how many times I've made these? This will be #5.  They are comfortable and versatile!

A while back, after taking my first pair of Sailor Sue's in twice, I altered the physical pattern. However, as I am typing this, I am realizing that I took the pants in at all 4 seams - each side, front, and back. When I altered the pattern, I think I removed width from the waist and hip area only at the side seams. I'll take another look at the pattern.


I made this brown pair up yesterday, no waistband or hem yet, but slipped them on to gauge the waistband elastic. Looked decent from the front except maybe a little excess fabric in the front crotch area. Looked good from the side. The back not so much.  There are all kinds of diagonal wrinkles under my bottom. I took some crappy, late night cell phone pictures, lightened to show detail.
Extra fabric folding in the crotch.

Side view not bad.




The last pair that I made, this gray pair, I added length above the waist, and added a waistband as well, because I wanted the pants to sit higher and look smoother under knit tops at the tummy region. The grey Ponte was a thicker fabric with a firmer hand and drape than the first pair I made. When I noticed similar wrinkles, I thought they may have been due to my fiddling around with adding a waistband and length above the waist. I'm not a fan of those wrinkles, so I tend to wear this pair less.

Back to today's brown pair. I'm toying with the idea of a waistband, but I may just sew in elastic and turn as the pattern indicates. I love these pants and wear the heck out of my others, but want to fix the wrinkles for future makes.

I will hem these pants to exclude excess fabric pooling as a cause of the wrinkling, then try to figure out  the fit issue. I'm wondering if I have the dreaded old lady 'low butt' (OLLB Syndrome) causing this - after all, I did just turn a year older this month.  {Looking at pictures of your own butt is motivation to exercise, is it not??}

Maybe I need a fisheye dart to take out excess under the butt?  Reshape the crotch curve? I'll be pinning out fabric on these to see what gives the correct fit, and consulting my fitting book library.

In the meantime, if you know what causeth my back leg wrinkles, please speak up in the comments! I know so many of you have gone through the pants fitting trials.  Did you have a similar issue, and if so, what was your fix?

Thanks and have a wonderful day!

Andrea

13 comments:

  1. Hey Andrea - I just wanted to reply here to your comment on my blog, because with all the Map the Sewintist traffic, I didn't want it to get lost! I'm heading down to visit some family in Fl. for a combination research meeting / spring break for my kids. Unfortunately, I'm only going to be in Tampa for <1 day, but I'll probably be back to do a training session later in the year and I would love to have a local sewintist to visit! I'll contact you then. Vicki

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  2. I've been struggling with pants on and off for two months. I'm really getting tired of it, but I've learned some things about fitting. Those under the butt wrinkles are the nemesis of just about every person making pants.

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  3. I'm no fit expert, but it seems your pants are riding high on the side hip, causing the drag lines. It looks like the folds would disappear if you pull down at the side seams.
    I hope someone else comments, as I'm not really sure about this.

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    1. I saw that too, Dixie. I think it was for lack of elastic and I tugged too much!

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  4. I see this every day in my clients...a bit of droopy butt, but it can be fixed by dropping the crotch seam lower so that center back slides up and takes the inseam drag lines with it and helps with under butt wrinkles too. Starting at where the center back seam starts to curve under and head towards the Va-jay jay junction and then emerge to front, try basting a deeper seam of 1/2 to1 inch deep trailing off to nothing at either end. When you get to that baggy front area, make the seam shallower so rides higher against the body. Every fabric drapes differently no matter how well we plan ahead.

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    1. Thanks mrsmole, I'll give it a go! Like you say...it's all about the crotch...

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  5. Oh pants and yes it is all about the crotch, and the butt! Hah. I am still getting my head around fitting them and will probably have to re-learn everything when I do so again.

    My suggestion was only going to be that it looks like you've pulled them up too hard, as you say, to compensate for the lack of waistband or elastic yet. Do let us know how you get on when following Mrs Mole's advice.

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    1. Thanks Emily, I will do a follow up post for sure. They are coming along!

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  6. Arg! I just finished a pants muslin! There is nothing more frustrating, or more rewarding when you get the fit right, than doing a pants muslin.

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    1. Lol, Mrs. Mole says it's all about that darn crotch!

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  7. MrsMole has some really good fitting advice there.
    I can see that you're on the right track picking up where these pants can do your shape proud.

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    1. Thank you! She has been so helpful!

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